What a 13-hr self-edifying workday looks like.

Trenchcoat by random Korean brand. Vest, vintage. Shirt by ASOS. Silk ascot by eBay retailer. Pants by Levi's. Boots by Nunn Bush.

Pretty good, actually. Better than most of y'all look on a fly day.

*Not pictured: Blackwatch sportcoat by Fink and galoshes by Swims (which I took home earlier in the day); comped Mediterranean dinner of scrumptious falafel/shawerma/kebab.

Self-Absorbed and Vaguely Lovable

Rugby shirt by Carpe. Shirt by American Eagle. Pants by H&M. Sneakers by Adidas Originals. Watch by Kenneth Cole Reaction. Silk scarf by Calvin Klein.

After a season-long absence that saw GG take its agonizingly long winter hiatus, I'm finally back on my narcissism beat on this blog thing.

It is said that the key to successful blogging, somewhere on the hierarchy near incessant cyber-d*ck-riding and insanely prolific output, is the adoption of a consistent, targeted theme. Hence, why most users--like me--who are still using this thing like a glorified LiveJournal, typing away the inanities of our daily go-abouts, recording our breakfast cereal of choice and fleeting moment of profound shame at passing a paraplegic bag lady on the street, will never have much of a followship to speak of.

But that's okay.

Not every day has to be a groundbreaker. Not every post has to be a masterpiece. In the end, Kanye West was the same guy when he was folding pants at the Gap as the guy selling 2 million records. What happens in between is experience, learning, and practice. A lot of practice.

So, until I start watching sufficiently style-conscious movies and resurrect the Film Fashions columns, here's a massive outfit dump of stuff I wore these past few months.

Sportcoat by Uniqlo. Vest by random Korean brand. Jeans by G-Star. Shoes by Aldo.

Sportcoat by Fink. Shirt by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Hat by H&M. Gloves by Armani Exchange.

Jacket by ASOS. Jeans by Levi's X Damien Hirst X Warhol Factory. Shoes by Gravati for Bergdorf Goodman.

Jacket by H&M. Shirt by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Watch by Movado. Bow tie and cufflinks, stylist's own.

Addendum to yesterday: An (old) Message from KW

Just found this on Dress Like Kanye West archives. One word: Priceless.

A message from kwest on Vimeo.

No joke, it reminds me of those promos professional wrestlers (WWE) who played heels/"bad guys" would cut for no other reason that to show, hilariously, how exaggeratedly douchey their personas can be.

Hey Kids! It's Stunt Like 'Ye Day!

Perusing industry news at work often leads to some strange, strange stuff.

Exhibit 1: Diesel promo for helmets. Includes a very un-PC moment that may surprise American viewers a bit -- then again, considering that Diesel's print ads feature anything from a bald fat guy licking a model's sneakered foot to a mostly-naked dude with a stuffed kitten in his briefs, an idea like this isn't so much of a stretch.



Also, because I can't seem to stop listening to "Baby By Me" -- only for the synth sounds in the background, mind you -- here's Fiddy teaming up with Steve Nash in a pretty funny Vitamin Water promo.

More hip-hop fun:

No Homer: 10 Hip-Hop and Rap Icons Simpsonized

See how many you manage to recognize -- without cheating by checking the picture file name.

Productive day today -- civil service exam, license renewed, and a few more extra hours in the afternoon to enjoy away from work. Kinda like a 2.25-day weekend, hah.

I'll close with this for the haters -- say what you will about his filter (or, lack thereof), but no matter how much he stunts, there's no denying that he puts in work.

Fictitious Fashion: "Mad Men" 's Duck Phillips & the Frankenstein three-piece

New idea: style-spotting for film/tv characters I come across. Once GG starts again, that will be plenty of reason for me to do a bunch of Chuck posts, unless the show's stylists continue to go down the drabbing-down route.

To kick things off, we have Herman "Duck" Phillips, played by Mark Moses on AMC's Mad Men, which--at its third season--just wrapped up a huge social-media and cross-promotional campaign in order to rise above the label of "the best show on TV you're not watching." This included not only a fashion tie-in with Banana Republic, but also oodles of interactive content on the official site, ranging from an application to build your own romping '60s MM avatar, to a hit-or-miss "Which Mad Men Are You?" quiz. (On my first try, I got Jane Siegel, who was like Don's third secretary or something. Go figure.)

Anyways. Marketing synopsis aside, here's Duck:

...and as you can see, Duck has a rather peculiar sartorial motif. Of course, everybody in the main MM cast has their trademarks:

• Don: Two-button sack suit in numerous shades of gray; dark skinny tie; all-in-one troubled/determined/I'm-hiding-something expression
• Roger: Dark three-piece, tie pin, permanent smirk of entitlement
• Pete: see Don, but substitute navy for gray
• Bert Cooper: bowtie, argyle socks, perpetual old-man wackiness

...all of which are agreeably classic looks. Then, you've got Duck and his...er...contrasting waistcoat...thing.

I suppose it's the same as wearing a cashmere sweater under a suit or sportcoat nowadays. Still, it's probably the only Mad Men look the major magazines have yet to condone....which only means the first to try it out will get added cool-kid bonus points. Go on, I dare ya.

Carpe the moment...or rational sleep.

As much as I've been trying to push myself towards a "early to bed, early to rise" schedule, I find more and more that I do my best work near or after the midnight hour. Often, I have some sort of breakthrough epiphany around 1 am, try to jot it down in bullet points for the sake of later elaboration, only to lose the excitement of the inner discovery the following morning. Maybe a flash of brilliance, or what may be confused for it, is worth a frantic scramble with five minutes to get to work the next morning.


Miles by jmniu featuring g-star jeans

Outfit post for the time being...I'm secretly hoping that the middle school kids I'm helping to teach this afternoon will at least have some silent appreciation of the color use.

Beginning of an End

Ah, first day of the last two months of undergrad. Highlight: squeezing cardio and lifting into the two hours before class. Not cool: going in for a haircut that I didn't even really need, and leaving with basically the Mao Zedong Mushroom minus the male-pattern baldness. -_-bb

But, I did find time to pick up my Gilt.com purchases--namely, a Hyden Yoo sweater and a pair of A. Testoni loafers that, while being too good a deal to pass up, are far, far too nice for my age and surroundings. I'll be worthy in 3-5 years, maybe. In the meantime...maybe the market value will appreciate.

Here's the outfit posting of the day, as inspired by the catch-up Gossip Girl I watched last night & its sheer abundance of shawl-collar cashmere sweaters.


"Welcome to the Next 30 Years" - by jmniu on Polyvore.com

Polyvore Experiment

As the days of cleaning out sophomore-year homework and pondering over my fledgling portfolio comes to an end, I've finally gotten around to fiddling with the nifty collaging tool millions in the blogosphere are already taking advantage of to add more visual punch to their posts. I'm not terribly impressed with it so far--it often fails to import photos I want for no apparent reason, even when it's static and not one of the numerous Java-enabled product photos that zoom in and out you see on so many shopping sites nowadays.

For that matter, the outfit I chose to do isn't anything revolutionary--I've done better at the summer-prep thing before. Still, it's a simple start, and the red works well for both attending a Chinese function and for pairing with Jack Purcells & skinny denim for a look that's all Rob Lowe circa 1985.

Incidentally, I found out that the JP's I got at Jeremy's on sale--as a spare pair of white sneakers--are actually current-season. What what?


American Minimal - by jmniu on Polyvore.com

Ralph Lauren F09

Just as prime-time TV's poster boy of prep has steadily shed his earlier propensity for loud, punchy uses of color, the bastion of prep design seems to continue its back-to-basics approach to reconciling inherently colorful prep design with the somber tone of our times.

As a matter of fact, the collection as a whole was a trifle *too* monochromatic for the tastes of yours truly--an abundance of earth tones and black/dark navy, with nary a gray-and-pastel combo in sight. Guess I'll have to check elsewhere for matching suggestions for my forthcoming new gray cardigan.

In any case, here are a couple of the very few items that carried on the proud prep tradition of always wearing exactly one item that says, "go to hell." I have yet to figure out a way to pull off the cardigan-as-blazer trick without it looking gimmicky--the main thing is finding a sweater that will still be functional enough to work in ensembles where it is not the main component.

Reading: A. Cicolini - The New English Dandy

Inspiration: it always strikes when one least expects it, and when one is least predisposed to exploit it. So I discovered, to my pleasant surprise, this 2005 gem of a coffee-table book right here at the university Main Stacks library over the weekend whilst searching for something else to do a history of business paper on besides 19th-century industrialists compared with Russia's oil/mining oligarchs.

It's got a lot of interesting things to say, as far as drawing a more accurate picture of dandyism in the modern age than what most could presuppose on their own. It articulates something I've been meaning to express: in an age where casual streetwear has become the de rigeur uniform of the young, it is those who are looking to classic staples of tailored jackets, shirts, and the like, who are interpreting them anew through unique combinations of colors and patterns, that are infusing creativity into daily aesthetics and rescuing us from monotony.

Here in California, where the cultural emphasis is on a careless, relaxed attitude, the propensity for hoodie-and-jeans banality is even more clearly visible. What most accept as "dressing up" here at university is usually a joyless effort, entailing a boxy, bland three-button jacket cut too high, paired with an unremarkable printed tie, thick-soled square shoes, with no more texture than a sheet of copy paper. Add a backpack, and you begin to get an idea of the campus' approach to suit-wearing.

[This is where I might articulate a grandiose bit of self-justification for "rebelling" through blackwatch plaid jackets and bow ties, but putting such sentiments into words, locking them in, would ruin the purpose of outfitting in the first place.]

I think I'd rather leave the capricious critiquing of "bad style" to the GQ and Details editors; as much as I love their work, their constant jonesing for a new phenomenon to define, elevate, and subsequently critique in three months' time does wear on my patience. There's nothing wrong about trying things you identify with or aspire to, so long as you know to move on when it begins to bore you or clash with how you see and feel about yourself.

3-pc Debut!

This is rare for me, but I'm extra-excited today because in just two hours, the KMJ Group--our mock consultancy--will be making its debut presentation on Burt's Bees in our Marketing class! To suit the occasion, and because I'm loaning the jacket of my darker suit for one of the other group members, I'm finally wearing the grey 3-piece I bought back during winter break (and I finally found a suit-tie combo that doesn't look awful). Can't wait! Now, back to rehearsing.

YES.

Apparently, this 88 Keys guy -- Brooklynite musician, Kanye collaborator, and self-proclaimed "Lo-Head" has worn nothing but RL Polo blue label for something like 8 years.

...needless to say, I feel much better about my RL obsession now.

New Semester

...So after about two months on the waiting list, I finally scored the sartorial grail of the year:




Yep, yours truly is now a proud J.Press Patchwork Scarf owner. One caveat: those tassels down at the ends--total shite. I thought my scarf was shedding strings nonstop until I finally realized the knots they were tied in weren't glued or in any way secured, just coming undone as they please. Of course, I'm none too pleased about that, but it's a small hiccup for the great perk of looking fly like the motherChucker himself.

I also ordered the cricket sweater from the last post for Christmas...only to have FedEx fail me by leaving it at the door of my apartment, resulting in its disappearance and a month-long game of tag with FedEx and RL Rugby reps trying to get my money back. As for the Chesterfield coat thing...I decided my two coats from Topman was enough. Maybe another season.

Got most of my tailoring back too...so between here and May it's all about paying off those holiday CC bills...yikes. Apart from that...new roommate, new classes (all Haas...hopefully...no more dancing around semiotics and feminist cultural critiques...), and new focus. Can't complain.

Though my navy blazer's still being worked on, it looks like it's headed for heavy rotation in my wardrobe this spring. RL's S/S show was all back to preppy staples...and for a style rooted in classics, that can only mean one thing:

Lots. and lots. of navy.

This was pretty much the theme for the whole show: navy on the outside, some variation of white with red/blue detailing on the inside. I highly doubt that jacket/sweater vest/shirt combo would function well here on the West Coast though...another reason to value these last couple months of winter chills.

Now, back to marketing/int'l business homework.

Swatch Villainy

So Quantum of Solace hasn't been getting the kind of love its predecessor received upon its release. Most of the reviews, to my knowledge, have that "good, not great" kind of vibe running through them--something typical to movies that are so hyped and have such a bona-fide pedigree that even if they suck, people just can't bring themselves to hate them.

IMO...the opening scene (but not the intro sequence) was pretty sweet...the indoor rope-swinging in Italy and the overhead shot through the skylight...not to mention Bond's legit shawl-collar cardigan when he visits Mathis, or the topcoat at the end (I'd mention the Tom Ford suits but folks are probably sick of hearing of them by now). But on the other hand, the story's flow just didn't go as smoothly as the first. And while M. Amalric's crutch-less take on the Bond Villain was kind of cool...a balanced sense of outlandishness has always been an integral part of the best ones.

Whatever the movie's misgivings, I thought this merchandise tie-in was particularly interesting. The venerated Swiss watchmaker, Swatch, has released a series of collectible 007 watches; not particularly surprising in itself, since Bond's timepieces have always been objects of envy. Here's the twist: each of these pieces are inspired by one of the key villains from each of the films; some are cartoonish (Baron Samedi's has a super-deformed looking skull on the face), others are a little out of place (I honestly could not figure out what part of Jaws' piece had to do with the character. Other than they both had shiny metal parts).

So, here are a few of the notable examples:

Here's one of the more expensive--and more subtle--examples. As a character, Emilio "No. 2" Largo is definitely part of the classical villains' canon, and his piece does its job of speaking to that while adding a little pizzazz. (see: the SPECTRE logo on one of the dials, the black/white variation referencing his eyepatch and largely b&w wardrobe)








...but if it's Sprezzatura you're going for, you might just be better off with the piece representing The Living Daylights, the first of the two oft-maligned T. Dalton entries. Note: despite what the packaging says, the watch is, in fact, inspired by the film's other bad guy, Joe Don Baker's West Point dropout and militaristic maniac, Brad Whitaker. The character is American, but his lapels sport this very Soviet-esque insignia...which forms the basis of this watch's design.




Now, a word about the chief rep of the series' East Asian nemeses...apart from its admittedly cartoonish moments, Die Another Day did have a lot of fun with the rarely-represented North Korea motif.

Does Zao's piece do him and Col. Moon/Gustav Graves justice? (sidebar: Toby Stephens' smirk throughout this film--heck, anytime he smirks--is the definition of smarmy) Well, for one, I liked where they're going with the thin metal design. However, the "scars" on the bands could've been more jagged, more haggard-looking. But what really stopped me from splurging on this one was the numbers--what is up with the takeout-box mock-Asian typface?? That sh~t belongs on my kung-pow chicken, not collectible semi-expensive watches.

Overall, while the execution wasn't perfect, this was still one of the most satisfying examples of licensed merchandising I've come across in a long time. You've gotta admit, Bond villains don't get enough credit for their coolness...they may have all failed to rule the world, but at least now they can be forever immortalized in plastic and stainless steel for fans like you and I.

RL Love, +random commentary

I find that inspiration is one of those intangibles that makes me truly happy when I am fortunate enough to happen upon it. Updating this has been rather hit-and-miss after the camera mishap on the Tower of London back in March...and not a lot has been done with the space after I realized I might not be able to carry out my initial vision of a Berkeley Sartorialist model.

But alas, one doesn't necessarily need to create everything posted to blog-space...maybe here and there when the inspiration comes naturally...they simply have to share the colorful images, ideas, or whatever it is that interests them during the course of a day.

I'm glad that it didn't take me any longer to figure out this simple fact.

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Have: Pastel V-Neck Sweater/Dark Denim/Moc combo

So as of my mini end-of-November shopping spree, I've managed to assemble something resembling this splendid getup. It's probably the contrast between top and bottom that really ties it together. Jeremy's (an upscale consignment-ish store that sells surplus stock, samples, other stuff in the same category) had a crazy 50% sale Black Friday weekend...so tons of money was dropped on some outstanding finds.

Anyways, one of said finds was a nice J.Crew v-neck not too unlike the one from RL Rugby above. As for the bottom half, there's a pair of Levi's Capital E Slim Straight-Legs and--an unbelievable eBay find, this one--super-soft Tod's driving moccassins on my shelf, ready to go.

Onto the next wardrobe goals for this F/W season...

Want: Chesterfield Coat, Cricket Sweater

So, really digging the Chesterfield-style topcoat right now...Banana Republic, Brooks Bros., and some other labels has one this season, but it looks like this RL Rugby version really gets the job done. Trim cut, tapered waist, extra pocket, and--naturally--the velvet top collar. (sadly it's also 425 !@%#ing dollars--ouch to the max! Time to save up some cash for the end of the season...)

The cricket sweater thing is a little more within reach, thankfully. Currently I have a little ivory number with green/purple trim, but something a little more somber like this one definitely has the edge in the versatility department.

What can I say; ever since I regained interest in The Great Gatsby and started watching Gossip Girl this summer, I find the classic preppy aesthetic more and more appealing. By that I mean Lisa Birnbach preppy...think J. Press, Brooks Bros., and (to state the obvious) RL, not A&F. No no no.

And apparently...after I started wearing a silk scarf as an ascot last winter..."American Trad" has become one of the fashion buzzwords of the season. To which I say: great, but I'm safe knowing I was there first with the ascot. Just ask Cottrell.

RL Rugby--Great Britain hooded rugby

Not really digging the hood on this one...(hood= -20 maturity pts.) but nevertheless, as usual, the colours of Britannia make for some sweet clothing designs.

Fall 08 Kicks Off

Probably no surprise that yes, I've been slacking on this project in these past months. I suppose things lose their novelty after a while...but to tide things over, here are a couple of shots from a recent launch party for BARE, UCB's fashion quarterly. Quite the hot show.

Out of respect for the photographer--and capitulating to my egoism--I opted only to jack the ones featuring yours truly in the shot.

UC Berkeley F.A.S.T. Spring 08 Show, Pt 1

This weekend, I had the infrequent opportunity to see a student-designers' showcase right in the campus ballroom--no need to go out hunting for shots.

Sadly, my camera was pretty fail for much of the show due to shutter speed/lighting. Some highlights:


Possibly more to come once I've resized them to web-propriate resolutions.

...Sproul Plaza, Cordovan Shoes/Jacket

Pre-Cal Day & Westfield